This is my last review of the season, and definitely my most important. When Nicolas Ghesquiere was announced the new creative director of Louis Vuitton, I experienced a range of emotions. Firstly, I was excited: he’s my favourite designer, and I felt that he could adapt to and face any challenge head on, even the huge, soul-sucking, money-making machine that is Louis Vuitton. But then I felt afraid: he left Balenciaga due to conflict with his bosses, who, he felt, cared more about increasing profits than making innovative product. When these details were revealed in an interview with System Magazine, the Balenciaga people sued, demanding over US$10 million in damages. The trial is set to begin in July*. I can’t even imagine what it must be like to now work for Bernard Arnault.
Now I feel, well, a little guilty. To me, this season has been mediocre, and I put so much pressure on Nicolas Ghesquiere to be the saviour of fashion week that it became impossible for him to meet my enormous expectations. I don’t recall seeing a lot of great collections this season, and even the other “high-expectation” designers didn’t produce anything that I feel we’ll be talking about one, five, or ten years from today. There was nothing in this collection that will mould the future of fashion, which Nicolas Ghesquiere has proven himself more than capable of doing in the past, but there wasn’t anything seriously offensive either. It was a nice collection, a clean slate for the new Louis Vuitton. I hope he can product something utterly amazing and conceptual (but not too conceptual; not Comme des Garcons conceptual. I’m worried about Rei.) in September. In the meantime, I’ll just appreciate the fact that Freja Beha Erichsen just walked her first runway show in ages.
*An earlier version of this post stated that the trial is set to begin in September. It will in fact begin in July.