This post should really be titled “Loathe: Love F/W 2013 Covers” because I can’t stomach any of the covers on offer this season. However, I quickly realised that my problem is not with Cara Delevingne’s endlessly quirky faces, or even Edie ‘I show less emotion than a loaf of bread’ Campbell. It’s not even Georgia May Jagger’s now stale rock progeny appeal (seriously, what is this girl’s day job?). My problem is actually with Katie Grand; more specifically, it is with her British fashion clique. I’m really tired of seeing her using the same models over and over again.
I’m not the first to say that the fashion industry often resembles high school. There are some people who are very talented and work hard to succeed in their respective fields, but there are also a lot of social-climbers, super-privileged socialites who consider attending the Marc Jacobs after-party “work”, and about a million cliques across the board. The cliques sit together in the front row and then later prance around the Tuileries garden in their fluorescent, hyper-graphic dresses, striking poses for the dizzying crowds of photographers and iPhone-wielding fans.
There are some fashion cliques who have done incredible work. The clique that defined the 90s included Carine Roitfeld, Mario Testino, Tom Pecheux, and Tom Ford. They created stunning, smouldering images that celebrated sex in fashion, which was particularly controversial because the AIDS/HIV panic of the decade before had made it such a taboo topic to talk about, let alone show in commercial images scattered throughout glossy fashion magazines. We still remember these incredible images, and we remember that Tom Ford was a brilliant designer, and that Carine Roitfeld had a very strong vision (“porno chic”) that would lead to bolder work for Vogue Paris.
However, when an editor continues to work with the same photographers and models it can become very boring very quickly. Katie Grand has been a part of some great publications–The Face, Dazed and Confused, and Pop–but her choice in models is starting to get on my nerves. I’ve said it before (many, many times) that I don’t consider Cara Delevingne a particularly striking model, but her latest cover is objectively bad. And I’m not entirely sure why people keep trying to make Edie Campbell ‘happen’ because her modelling portfolio, which is a series of blank stares and lazy lips, is weak.
So rather than trying to promote girls born with silver spoons in their mouths, how about we move away from boring over-exposed models/socialites? And if Katie Grand is so adamant on using British girls, how about a black British girl for a change? Jourdan Dunn hasn’t done anything big in a while. Nor has Nyasha Matonhodze. And if by chance Katie Grand should ever come across this blog, please please please put Malaika Firth on the cover of LOVE. She’s stunning.